Secondhand strategy: the dinner ring

Not to be confused with the cocktail ring. How to find it - key search terms and a tight edit.

On my 21st birthday, I inherited an art deco era ring that belonged to my grandmother. It’s one of my most treasured pieces. I was wanting to write about shopping for vintage estate jewelry, and in my research, learned that this style of ring is actually called a dinner ring - how impossibly chic!

Also an afternoon matcha ring. Worn with Dorsey pinky ring.

Originating in the late Edwardian era and popular during the Art Deco period, the dinner ring was designed for formal evening wear and considered the refined choice of “polite society,” compared to the bold cocktail rings worn at prohibition-era parties. It’s defined by smaller gemstones, geometric shapes, filigree metalwork and an elongated “north-south” orientation.

You can find a lot of rings in this style at an excellent price point in diamonds and solid gold or platinum. Because it is filigree (also called “metal lace”), it’s quite light and it’s use of illusion settings make stones appear larger. Long story short, you can get a lot of look while using finer metalwork and lighter carat weight gemstones.

I’ve been asked about how I would build a jewelry collection (I should and will write more about this) and my very first piece of advice would be to use jewelry as the fantasy piece in your wardrobe. Buy pieces because they feel special and wear them unapologetically. There is nothing more elegant than a spectacular piece of jewelry worn in a pared back and casual way.

6 good dinner rings and some styling thoughts below. x

HOW TO FIND YOURS.

KEY WEBSITES: For this kind of piece, amazing selections will be found with independent antique dealers. Jewels by Grace and Lang Antiques (featured below) are a few. Both offer a return policy, as I know it can be daunting to shop antiques online! 1st Dibs has a return policy specific by vendor - be sure to check before you purchase.

KEY SEARCH TERMS: Antique, Vintage, Edwardian, Art Deco, Dinner Ring, Navette Ring

SIZING: If a ring has a plain band (like these do) they can typically be sized up or down by 1 full size. Ask the vendor!

1 CARAT AND UNDER

Left: This ring is the closest match to mine. Size 4.75.

Right: Love the slightly longer proportions and mixed diamond shapes on this one. Size 6.5.

OVER 1 CARAT

This one is a beauty - watch the product video! Size 6.

A ring for those who love rubies.

PINKY RINGS

Particularly obsessed with dinner rings worn on the pinky. So good.

Left Pinky Ring Size 4 | Right Pinky Ring Size 3.25

WORTH KNOWING: If you find an antique white gold ring that has a bit of wear to it, a cleaning and fresh rhodium plating from the jeweler will restore it to its bright white shine.

I know vintage styles might seem intimidatingly formal, but you can absolutely style them down. Worn the other day with a vintage Hanes sweatshirt, Isabel Marant trouser, straw bag, and Ciao Lucia sandals. As it turns out, this ring is not just for dinner.